All Seiko Galante watches feature the same basic case design, with four iconic columns around the main body, all bolted to a back plate. But from launch in 2005 through 2010, all Galante watches also used Seiko’s automatic Spring Drive. This changed with the launch of the “open heart” SBLL line. But it wasn’t just the use of a mechanical movement that differentiated this line: Galante’s design and launch material focused on the city of Tokyo itself.
The SBLL mechanical line lasted from 2010 through 2015 in regular production, with one final special edition released in 2018.
Seiko Galante History series
Concept 04: Galante Mechanical SBLL
The original Galante “Concept 01” was the brand itself. With launch came “Concept 02”, the automatic Spring Drive models, with GMT or a rotating bezel. This was joined by “Concept 03” in 2007, the Galante Chronograph line. In March of 2010, Galante launched “Concept 04”, the open heart mechanical line.
The SBLL series continued the classic Galante case design, though this new watch featured some changes from the Spring Drive models. First, the case was resized to 45.0 mm across and 13.5 mm thick. The columns remained as before, screwed to the back plate, but they were no longer responsible for holding the main body in place. Like the SBLA models with a rotating bezel, all SBLL models have four separate screws to attach the body.
Seiko emphasized the mechanical movement in the design and marketing, using the term “Tokyo Heartbeat” to showcase this new model. The display caseback was radically altered, going from full-width to a small off-center window showing the oscillating balance. Due to the open heart dial, this allowed light to pass straight through the watch. The dial designs emphasized this opening as well, highlighting it as a focal point for the first models but eventually turning it into a “G” in later examples.
Seiko also emphasized their connection to Tokyo in the SBLL series. The case body features 23 sides, reflecting the 23 wards of the city. The hands are said to reflect the city’s skyscrapers, while the seconds hand was designed to resemble the Tokyo “Skytree”, which had recently become the tallest building in the city. Once again, marketing slogans were created to integrate the concept of heartbeat (of the mechanical movement) and nightlife (of Tokyo).
All SBLL Galante watches shared the same Cal. 8L38 movement. Based on the Grand Seiko 9S automatic movement, this is a high-end hand-built movement with luxury finishing. It oscillates at 28,800 A/h and achieves 50 hours power reserve thanks to Seiko’s finishing and spring technology. Interestingly, it is a 26 jewel movement like the 9S55 rather than 24 like the no-date 9S51. The movement plates are partially skeletonized for use in an open heart watch, something never seen before in such a high-end movement from Seiko, though it is barely visible in the watch.
2010: Astro Boy and SBLL
The first mechanical Galante model was the “Mighty Atom” limited-edition celebrating Astro Boy. SBLL005 was teased a year before launch, but appeared for sale alongside SBLL001 and SBLL003 on June 25, 2010. The Astro Boy artwork on the dial and packaging was created just for Galante, with a speech balloon exclaiming “Ikuzo Galante!” (“Let’s go Galante!”) The reverse of the SBLL005 features a heart embedded in the glass over the balance wheel.
While the Astro Boy model was marketed explicitly to men, SBLL001 and SBLL003 were decidedly feminine. With white and plum colors, respectively, they reflected the long-standing focus on both genders for Seiko’s “sexy” domestic brand. A few months would pass before the masculine SBLL007 appeared, with a white on black color scheme calling back to the original SBLA007. The full-production SBLL models were priced at 399,000 Yen (about US$4,400 in 2010), 60% the cost of a Spring Drive SBLA Galante watch. Even the Astro Boy model, limited to 150 examples, was priced at just 472,500 Yen (about US$5,250).
SBLL001 “A city beats by brightness of the daylight” Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.0×13.5 mm 399,000円 June 2010-2015 | |
SBLL003 “Taking advantage of twilight, night begins to move” Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.0×13.5 mm 399,000円 June 2010-2015 | |
SBLL005, “Mighty Atom”, LE of 150 Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.0×13.5 mm 472,500円 2010 | |
SBLL007 “Throbbing night, the desire crosses each other in neon in the shining town” Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.0×13.5 mm 399,000円 October 2010-2015 |
2011: Gala Sign and Black Jack
The second wave of mechanical Galante watches was announced on March 24, 2011. These used a new case that was slightly larger than before, measuring 45.5 mm across and 14.0 mm thick. Also new was the “Gala Sign” on the dial, a block letter “G” over the open heart between 10 and 11. This would become the logo for the Galante brand, working its way into most mechanical and Spring Drive models after 2011.
Seiko has long identified watches with a mesh bracelet specially in their catalog, but this was not offered in a mechanical Galante until 2011. All three models feature this mesh bracelet.
SBLL009 Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.5×14.0 mm 525,000円 August 2011-2015 | |
SBLL011 Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.5×14.0 mm 525,000円 August 2011-2015 | |
SBLL013, “Black Jack”, LE of 150 Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.5×14.0 mm 630,000円 July 2011-2012 |
The “Galante x Black Jack” was the first released on the market in July. It was a joint project with Tezuka Productions, publisher of both Black Jack and Astro Boy. The “Gala Sign” letter G is lined with Swarovski crystals. Just 150 were produced in 2011 and 2012.
The full-production SBLL009 and SBLL011 appeared on the market in August. They are quite similar to the Black Jack special edition, with the Gala Sign open heart dial and a row or minute markers around the dial. But they have pyramids marking the hours and bold pastel blue or pink accents, rather than the subdued Black Jack.
2012-2014: SBLL Special Editions
The Galante SBLL mechanical line continued for the next few years with the feminine SBLL001, SBLL003, SBLL009, and SBLL011 balanced by the more masculine SBLL007 and special editions.
BaselWorld 2012 saw the most significant Galante special edition yet: The Rolling Stones themed SBLL017. This brought international attention to the erstwhile Japan-only Galante line and remains the best-known Galante model outside Japan. 350 examples were produced, with sales beginning August 24, 2012. With a price of 577,500 Yen (about US$7,200 in 2012), it was priced close to the Astro Boy and Black Jack models, and far lower than previous limited editions.
An important special edition Galante launched in 2013 was the FC Barcelona model. With an extra-wide bezel, it remains one of the only Galante models to feature a truly unique case. The dial is unique as well, with a representation of the Barcelona flag in grey exposing the open heart. 150 examples were made of SBLL021 at a retail price of 525,000 Yen (about US$6,500 in 2011).
SBLL017, “Rolling Stones”, LE of 350 Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.0×13.5 mm 577,500円 August 24, 2012-2013 | |
SBLL021, “FC Barcelona”, LE of 150 Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.0×14.4 mm 525,000円 August 23, 2013 | |
SBLL023, “Glitter”, LE of 100 Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.5×14.0 mm 560,000円 August 22, 2014-2015 | |
SBLL025, “Peacemaker” LE Stainless steel bezel and case 8L38, 45.5×14.0 mm 640,000円 June 9, 2018 |
2014 saw the release of SBLL023, a limited edition of 100 watches with the biggest “Gala Sign” yet. Technically called “Mechanical 2014 Limited Edition”, the theme was “Glitter” and this is the name used in most publicity. Although different from the SBLA019 and SBLA055, the Glitter model recalls those classic limited edition models, though the use of Swarovski crystals rather than diamonds keeps the price in check. There are three diamonds included as markers at 6, 9, and 12, however, along with four black diamonds on the cylinders.
In 2013, Seiko allowed a few retailers outside Japan to sell certain Galante watches. The FC Barcelona SBLL021 was the first model offered in the United States, at an MSRP of US$5,800. In 2014, Seiko added the Glitter SBLL023 to the US lineup at US$6,250, along with two SBLA watches, the “Blue Rose” SBLA079 and “Snow Leopard” SBLA081. At the same time, they appear to have removed the line (known locally as “GLT”) from the Taiwan market.
As of today, the original authorized Galante retailer in the USA, Arizona Fine Time, has the SBLL021 FC Barcelona model on offer for $4,080.
The final model in the original SBLL mechanical line was the SBLL025 “Peacemaker”. This model was unusual in many ways, but would be the final mechanical model in the SBLL lineup. It featured six gold disks that resemble “Parabellum” rounds in a dial that resembles the Colt “Peacemaker” revolver. They are labeled in turn, “Galante, Aurum, Tempus, Potestas, Fame, Amor” (“Galante, Gold, Time, Power, Fame, Love”), with the “Galante” bullet at 12:00 the last live round remaining. The dial is engraved and the hands differ from all other SBLL models. The crown is a unusual triangular shape. Released in 2018, after all other SBLL models were cancelled, this is the final SBLL release to date.
Seiko Galante History series
The SBLL line was phased out after 2015, replaced by two new mechanical models: The SBLM added a GMT complication with Cal. 8L36 while the STLL continued Cal. 8L38 in a design specifically for ladies.
All images taken from Seiko’s Galante web site and promotional materials.
Neill Powell says
To be frank, while these watches are not everyone’s favorite (a Final Fantasy one, even in shocking-pink would have me queuing for one, though), they, along with Citizen and Casio, stand apart as fully-functioning every-day-carry watches. Watches you can pick up and wear for years and never be concerned that they might stop working one day. So, while coming across as somewhat frivolous and whimsical, you can bet your bottom-dollar they’ll be as reliable and consistent as any other watch in their range. The Seiko/Citi/Casio brands stand up as being the Swatch of the Japanese timekeeping realm, and having said that, are fully-qualified, reliable timepieces in their own right.