Today we take a look at Ref. 3960 and Ref. 5053, two “officer’s watch” Calatrava models. Although still not the perfect Calatrava, these are two very fine references!
Simply the Best: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227
Having rejected the original Calatrava Ref. 96 and its successors as well as the entire Clous de Paris line, I now move on to something really special. Ref. 5227, introduced in 2013, was a high-point for the series in terms of craftsmanship and was unlike anything before. Let’s take a look!
The Perfect Calatrava: Considering the “Clous de Paris” Ref. 5120
Continuing my quest for the perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava, I turn to the other main branch of the family. In 1973, Patek Philippe added “Clous de Paris” guilloche to the bezel of a straight-lug Calatrava and a new legend was born. Today, many people think of this Ref. 3520 rather than the clean, flowing original when they hear the name! Is this the perfect Calatrava?
In Search of the Perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava, Starting with Ref. 96
Whenever this subject of iconic watches comes up, you can be sure the Patek Philippe Calatrava is all over the list. Yet it’s hard to pin down which Calatrava is the one to get. With over 100 references produced, I am still trying to identify The Perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava. Ref. 96 has a lot going for it other than “first”, with the perfect case, wonderful dials, and small seconds. Check out this white gold Ref. 96 from Robert Maron – it’s the best Ref. 96 I could find today!
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5090J: “The Russian Watch”
On the subject of unusual Patek Philippe Calatrava references, may I present a very unusual sculpted model: Ref. 5090J from about 2000, also called the “Russian Watch” due to its limited production for that market. I found two examples of this unusual reference for sale, so I thought I would take a moment to talk about it.
Stainless Tonneau: Patek Philippe Calatrava 3574
This stainless tonneau is a genuine Patek Philippe Calatrava but Ref. 3574 is beyond rare. I bet most enthusiasts never even heard of this model!