Grail Watch

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Inventing the Solar-Powered Watch: Patek Philippe, Synchronar, and Uranus

December 20, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Photovoltaic cells were invented in the 1940s, and Patek Philippe produced a novel clock that used them. Once integrated circuit technology improved enough to build a quartz watch, American inventor Roger Riehl created the first solar-powered watch. His Synchronar paved the way for the solar digital watches that brought the technology to the masses in the 1970s. Then there was Uranus, with their wild calculator watch!

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: digital, LED, Patek Philippe, solar watch, Synchronar, Uranus

Why Are High-End Watches So Expensive?

February 28, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

When people learn about my interest in watches, the conversation eventually turns to cost. Why pay so much for a watch? This is especially true once they learn that what they thought was expensive (a $10,000 Rolex) isn’t even considered “high end” in the world of watches, and once they discover that a modern gold or gem-set watch costs five times that much. Why are high-end watches so expensive?

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: high-end, Jaeger-LeCoultre, luxury, Patek Philippe, pricing, Rolex, Submariner, Veblen goods

Patek Philippe 5015 Moon Phase Power Reserve: Calatrava Plus

January 10, 2017 By Stephen Leave a Comment

I’ve got a thing for classic dress watches in general and Patek Philippe Calatravas in particular, so I get excited when I see a real classic come up for auction. Such is the case with this Ref. 5015 Moon Phase Power Reserve: It’s not technically a Calatrava, but it features all the best elements of that line. Starting at just €7,000, who’s bidding?

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: 240/152, hunter, micro-rotor, Moon Phase, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Power Reserve, PP 240

Could an Officer’s Watch Be the Ultimate Patek Philippe Calatrava?

February 3, 2016 By Stephen 4 Comments

Today we take a look at Ref. 3960 and Ref. 5053, two “officer’s watch” Calatrava models. Although still not the perfect Calatrava, these are two very fine references!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Calatrava, Calatrava 3960, Calatrava 5053, Chrono24, Essential Watches, Morgan and Company, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe 324, Patek Philippe Calatrava, PP 324, The Perfect Calatrava

Simply the Best: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227

February 2, 2016 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Having rejected the original Calatrava Ref. 96 and its successors as well as the entire Clous de Paris line, I now move on to something really special. Ref. 5227, introduced in 2013, was a high-point for the series in terms of craftsmanship and was unlike anything before. Let’s take a look!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Calatrava, Calatrava 5227, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe 324, Patek Philippe Calatrava, PP 324, The Perfect Calatrava

The Perfect Calatrava: Considering the “Clous de Paris” Ref. 5120

February 1, 2016 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Continuing my quest for the perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava, I turn to the other main branch of the family. In 1973, Patek Philippe added “Clous de Paris” guilloche to the bezel of a straight-lug Calatrava and a new legend was born. Today, many people think of this Ref. 3520 rather than the clean, flowing original when they hear the name! Is this the perfect Calatrava?

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Calatrava, Calatrava 5116, Calatrava 5119, Calatrava 5120, micro-rotor, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe Calatrava, PP 240, The Perfect Calatrava

In Search of the Perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava, Starting with Ref. 96

January 31, 2016 By Stephen 1 Comment

Whenever this subject of iconic watches comes up, you can be sure the Patek Philippe Calatrava is all over the list. Yet it’s hard to pin down which Calatrava is the one to get. With over 100 references produced, I am still trying to identify The Perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava. Ref. 96 has a lot going for it other than “first”, with the perfect case, wonderful dials, and small seconds. Check out this white gold Ref. 96 from Robert Maron – it’s the best Ref. 96 I could find today!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Calatrava, Calatrava 96, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe 12-400, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Robert Maron, The Perfect Calatrava

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5090J: “The Russian Watch”

January 27, 2016 By Stephen Leave a Comment

On the subject of unusual Patek Philippe Calatrava references, may I present a very unusual sculpted model: Ref. 5090J from about 2000, also called the “Russian Watch” due to its limited production for that market. I found two examples of this unusual reference for sale, so I thought I would take a moment to talk about it.

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: 5090J, Beverly Hills, Calatrava, Calatrava 1491, Calatrava 2592, Calatrava 3574, Calatrava 5090, East Coast Jewelry, Essential Watches, Faberge, Miami, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Russian

Stainless Tonneau: Patek Philippe Calatrava 3574

January 26, 2016 By Stephen 1 Comment

This stainless tonneau is a genuine Patek Philippe Calatrava but Ref. 3574 is beyond rare. I bet most enthusiasts never even heard of this model!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: 23-300, 3574, Breitling Datora 592, Calatrava, Calatrava 3574, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Robert Maron, stainless steel, tonneau, WatchCentre

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Ladies’ Watch, Ref. 4910

January 6, 2016 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Many male watch enthusiasts would love to give that special lady in their life a fine watch, even if they don’t share our enthusiasm. This Patek Philippe “Twenty~4” pushes all the right buttons on both side of the equation: A real Patek, with diamonds no less, in wearable form and affordable thanks to a quartz movement and steel case.

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Chopard, ladies, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe 24, Patek Philippe Twenty Four, Patek Philippe Twenty-4, Patek Philippe Twenty~4

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