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The Rise and Fall of Leonidas and the Beau-Site Factory

April 5, 2022 By Stephen 2 Comments

Leonidas is a familiar name to chronograph aficionados, but the history of the company is long and interesting, dating back to 1841 and connecting two great names in Swiss watchmaking, Bourquin and Jeanneret, and the company was linked to both Heuer and Berna.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Beau-Site, Berna, Charles Jeanneret, Chronograph, Constant Jeanneret-Droz, Ferdinand Bourquin, Julien Bourquin, Junior, Leonidas, Saint-Imier, Stopwatch

Excelsior Park: Usine du Parc, Saint-Imier

October 7, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Industrialization of watchmaking came to Switzerland in the late 19th century and is embodied by the huge Longines factory on the Suze river in Saint-Imier. But steam power came first, enabling the construction of factories across Europe and the United States, including Usine du Parc, home and namesake of Excelsior Park. This is the story of the rise and fall of steam power in Saint-Imier and the exceptional stopwatches made there. It is also the story of the end of steam and of the Excelsior Park factory, and the reasons for its failure.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Albert Jeanneret, Chronograph, Excelsior Park, Fritz Moeri, Gallet, Henri Jeanneret-Brehm, Jules-Frédéric Jeanneret, Moeris, Saint-Imier, Stopwatch

How the Chronograph Became the “It” Watch Complication

June 23, 2021 By Stephen 2 Comments

Chronographs are so popular that cheap fashion watches today often feature bogus subdials with non-functional hands and pushers. But once upon a time, a chronograph was a simple tool seen more as an advanced stopwatch than a true complication. What was once a utilitarian tool for soldiers became an upscale choice for doctors, then an iconoclast choice for young people, and now a sign of fine watchmaking.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Breitling Chronomat, Chronograph, Daniel Roth, Europa Star, Excelsior Park, IWC Da Vinci, Leonidas, Martel, Nathan Weil, Patek Philippe

The History of the IWC Da Vinci via Europa Star

June 5, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Regular Grail Watch readers might have noticed that I have begun using the archives of Europa Star rather heavily in my research. The editors noticed as well, and have invited me to be a contributing writer to that fine journal. My first piece was published today, and delves into the history of an iconic model, IWC’s Da Vinci. The archive brought me fantastic information and illustrations, as we will discuss today.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Beta 21, CEH, Chronograph, Europa Star, IWC, IWC Da Vinci, IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, Mechaquartz, perpetual calendar, quartz

The History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

April 12, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

The Royal Oak Chronograph was a latecomer to this celebrated line and has remained remarkably consistent throughout its two-decade life. All share the same movement and a single lineage passes from the original Ref. 25860 to the subtly-redesigned Ref. 26300, the up-sized Ref. 26320, and the new Ref. 26331. It was only this year that a second model, the 38 mm Ref. 26315, was added. Yet on closer examination, a world of differences emerges, from the City of Sails to the Leo Messi, to the new 41 mm dial. Through it all, the Royal Oak Chronograph remains one of the classiest and most comfortable watches available.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Audemars Piguet, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, Chronograph, FP 1185

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gran’Sport: The First “Beefcake” Reverso

January 23, 2019 By Stephen 1 Comment

Given the clever retrograde chronograph movement, the Gran’Sport Chronograph is the pick of the Gran’Sport lineup today. It’s really too bad that gorgeous Reverso Chronographe Rétrograde is out of the price range for most people.

Filed Under: Grails, History Tagged With: 829, 859, Chronograph, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Retrograde, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gran'Sport, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gran'Sport Chronograph, retrograde

The Current IWC Ingenieur Lineup is a Travesty

December 5, 2018 By Stephen 4 Comments

My enthusiasm for various watch models tends to wax and wane as I see something interesting, and lately my attention has turned to the IWC Ingenieur range. From the original Milgauss competitor to Gerald Genta’s remarkable Ingenieur SL to the chunky Mercedes-AMG racing models, the Ingenieur lineup has always been worth a look. Yet today’s lineup is beyond bland and not deserving of the name. Good thing, too, since IWC seems to be eliminating that, too!

Filed Under: Grails, Reviews Tagged With: Albert Pellaton, Chronograph, Flyback, Gerald Genta, Ingenieur, Ingenieur SL, IWC, IWC Ingenieur, perpetual calendar

Paul Picot Firshire Chrono: Classic Movement, New Case

April 28, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Today’s “Watch A Day” is my Paul Picot Firshire chronograph, which I described extensively back in 2014. It’s combines a classic hand winding chronograph movement with modern build quality in a dressy yet sporty tonneau case. Four years on, I find myself wearing it about once a month, which is above average in my collection.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: 2002 Paul Picot Firshire Chrono, Chronograph, Di-Modell, Lemania 1872, Paul Picot, Paul Picot Firshire, Paul Picot Firshire Chrono

Levrette Chronograph: Classic Elegance

April 24, 2018 By Stephen 3 Comments

Today’s “Watch A Day” is a real classic: A Swiss chronograph in a gold case with the historic Venus 175 movement ticking inside. It’s a joy to wear and enjoy such a wonderful timepiece!

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: Chronograph, column wheel, Levrette, Tissot, Venus, Venus 175

Seiko Giugiaro SCED035: Daughter of Ripley

April 21, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

The other day I wore the Seiko SCED017 “Bishop” Reissue for “Watch A Day”, so today I am turning to the SCED035 “Ripley” reissue. I like this one better than the Bishop in many ways, though the boxy styling is definitely polarizing.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: 7T12, Aliens, Chronograph, Ellen Ripley, Limited Editions, Ripley, Seiko, Seiko Giugiaro, Seiko Spirit, Watches

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