Grail Watch

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Seiko Galante History Part 2: Open Your Heart to Tokyo

August 13, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Seiko launched a mechanical Galante line in 2010 as a cheaper alternative to the Spring Drive watches the brand was known for. This SBLL line featured an “open heart” highlighting the ticking balance and the design focused on the city of Tokyo.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: 8L38, Galante, SBLL, Seiko

The Current IWC Ingenieur Lineup is a Travesty

December 5, 2018 By Stephen 4 Comments

My enthusiasm for various watch models tends to wax and wane as I see something interesting, and lately my attention has turned to the IWC Ingenieur range. From the original Milgauss competitor to Gerald Genta’s remarkable Ingenieur SL to the chunky Mercedes-AMG racing models, the Ingenieur lineup has always been worth a look. Yet today’s lineup is beyond bland and not deserving of the name. Good thing, too, since IWC seems to be eliminating that, too!

Filed Under: Grails, Reviews Tagged With: Albert Pellaton, Chronograph, Flyback, Gerald Genta, Ingenieur, Ingenieur SL, IWC, IWC Ingenieur, perpetual calendar

Maurice Lacroix Grand Guichet GMT: Grand, Not GMT

April 23, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Yesterday on “Watch A Day” I presented my first mechanical watch. Today I’m presenting my first Swiss mechanical. This Maurice Lacroix Grand Guichet GMT has an excellent Swiss movement, a useful complication, and Swiss build quality. But it’s not a GMT and the big date isn’t very big at all.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: Big Date, ETA 2892, ETA 2892-A2, GMT, Maurice Lacroix, Maurice Lacroix Grand Guichet GMT, Maurice Lacroix Les Classiques, second timezone

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo: Classic Elegance Incarnate

April 6, 2018 By Stephen 1 Comment

Today’s watch is a wonderful travel companion, a versatile and elegant accessory, and a true classic: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo. This was my first high-end watch and cemented in me a love for Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: 854/1, GMT, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, Reverso

The Perfect Calatrava: Considering the “Clous de Paris” Ref. 5120

February 1, 2016 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Continuing my quest for the perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava, I turn to the other main branch of the family. In 1973, Patek Philippe added “Clous de Paris” guilloche to the bezel of a straight-lug Calatrava and a new legend was born. Today, many people think of this Ref. 3520 rather than the clean, flowing original when they hear the name! Is this the perfect Calatrava?

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Calatrava, Calatrava 5116, Calatrava 5119, Calatrava 5120, micro-rotor, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe Calatrava, PP 240, The Perfect Calatrava

Seiko SCED: A Modern Reissue of the 1980’s “Aliens” Chronographs

December 1, 2015 By Stephen 6 Comments

Some of the most recognizable and sought-after collectible watches weren’t all that expensive when they were new. One example of the low-end grail is the line of 7A28 Seiko chronographs designed by Italian designer, Giorgetto Giugiaro. These odd asymmetric watches were used in the 1986 film, “Aliens”, but were not considered collectibles at the time. Now they are so in demand that Seiko has reissued them as limited edition models in their home-market Spirit line.

Filed Under: Commentary, History Tagged With: 7A28, 7T12, Aliens, Chronograph, Giugiaro, Meca-Quartz, Mechaquartz, quartz, SCED, Seiko, Seiko Spirit

H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual One

May 23, 2014 By Stephen Leave a Comment

When it comes to stealth complications, this H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual One is about as good as it gets. Lurking under an understated and classy exterior is a mean horological machine with a perpetual calendar and double barrel power to last all week!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: H. Moser & Cie., H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual One, Moser

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