Grail Watch

The search for the grail is the search for illumination

  • Grail Watch Reference
  • The Watch Files Podcast
  • History
  • Commentary
    • Grails
    • Reviews
  • Collection
    • Watch A Day
    • My Watch Collection
  • Reference Materials
    • Watch Brand and Model Pages
    • Reference Database
    • Primary Sources
  • About Grail Watch
  • Email
  • Instagram
  • LinkedIn
  • Twitter

Copyright © 2022 · Log in

The Neo-Classical Watches of Naoya Hida

May 3, 2022 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Naoya Hida & Co. is a Tokyo-based independent watch atelier producing a small number of classically-inspired watches. The company recently released their 2022 line for application. This article gives an overview of Hida, the watches, and their movements.

Filed Under: Commentary, Grails, Reviews Tagged With: Calatrava, Habring2, Japan, Naoya Hida, NH Type 1, NH Type 2, NH Type 3, Paul Gerber, Valjoux 7750

The Original James Bond Watch Was Not What You Think!

April 17, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

James Bond, Agent 007, has been linked with gadgets for decades. From the Aston Martin to the Rolex to that mini jet, the Bond movies have cemented these images in our minds. But the very first official James Bond watch didn’t come from Rolex, Omega, or even Seiko: It came from an obscure company called Moeris, which has a surprising connection to those companies!

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Blancpain, James Bond, Licensing, Moeris, Moeris James Bond 007, Omega, Rayville, Rolex Submariner, SSIH, Tissot

The Nadir of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Reverso

April 15, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Most enthusiasts could instantly name the watches pictured below, but they’d be wrong: This isn’t a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, its an Eska Sesame! By the 1980s, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature model was forgotten and the company was struggling to survive. Yet just a decade later, the Reverso would lead the entire industry back from the brink. This is the story of the fall of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the resurrection of the Reverso.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Eska, Eska Sesame, Günter Blümlein, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque, LMH, Royce, Royce Mexico

Jean d’Eve Samara: The First Automatic Quartz Watch

April 3, 2020 By Stephen 2 Comments

Browsing through the archives of Europa Star, I came across a groundbreaking watch I had never encountered. The Jean d’Eve Samara was not just the world’s first automatic-winding quartz watch, it was also a remarkably novel design! My research rabbit-hole lead me to learn not just about this watch but about an entire dark corner of horology.

Filed Under: Collection, History Tagged With: ETA Autoquartz, Le Phare, Renley, Seiko AGS, Seiko Kinetic, Sultana, Ventura MGS

The Curious Case of the Seiko SARA and 4L25

December 21, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Despite an amazing history of producing excellent watches and watch movements, Seiko never seems to get the respect it deserves. But perhaps the most curious attempt by Seiko to challenge the Swiss came in the form of the SARA watch and the 4L25 movement inside.

Filed Under: Grails, History Tagged With: 4L25, Brightz, SARA005, Seiko

Movado 1891 Ultra-Slim “Museum Watch”

April 29, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Despite the sketchy history of the design, Movado’s “Museum Watch” remains an icon of horology. It’s one of the very few watches that is instantly recognizable even to the uninitiated, and thus belongs in any serious collector’s watch box, if not on their wrist.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: dress watch, ETA 956, ETA 956.032, Movado, Movado 1891, Museum of Modern Art, Museum Watch, Nathan George Horwitt, quartz, ultra thin, Vacheron Constantin

Roamer Rotopower 44: Elegance with Balls

April 14, 2018 By Stephen 4 Comments

After yesterday’s epic 1500 word “Watch A Day” post, I decided to go for something simpler. Today I’m wearing a classic dress watch from a little-remembered brand. This Roamer Rotopower features a 44-jewel (!) movement, 14 karat gold case, and classic dress watch styling.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: MST 370, Roamer, Rotopower

Seiko Lord Matic 5606: Retro TV

April 12, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

I’m on a Seiko kick this week for my “Watch A Day” series but this is a bit of an oddball. This Lord Matic is a mainstream automatic with dated 1970s styling and a decent but not awesome automatic movement. It’s the kind of watch many of us have in the box, getting occasional glances but infrequent wear.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: Lord Matic, Seiko, Seiko 5606, Seiko Lord Matic, Suwa Seikosha

Seiko Premier SSA027: Upscale, Open-Heart

April 11, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Today’s “Watch A Day” is a Seiko Premier SSA027, the dressy brother of yesterday’s SSA005 tool watch. Part of the Seiko Premier automatic line, it features the updated 4R39A movement and an “open heart” design. It’s a decent if clunky dress watch, better made than most Seiko models and a bargain compared to Swiss offerings.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: 4R39, Open Heart, Seiko, Seiko 4R, Seiko Premier, Seiko SSA027

Seiko Lord Matic: Emerald Jewel

April 7, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

When traveling to new cities, I often stop by a local watchmaker and dealer for conversation and to see what they kept to sell. I ran into this model Seiko Lord Matic at just such a shop in San Francisco, falling for the faceted crystal, green dial, and arrowhead markers, but felt that his price was delusional. This set off a 6-month quest to find a better example at an affordable price.

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: 5216, Daini, Hi-Beat, Lord Matic, Seiko, Seiko 5200, Special

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • Next Page »

Latest Posts

Is The Naked Frederique Constant Perpetual a Hit or Miss?

The Neo-Classical Watches of Naoya Hida

What is a Lépine Watch Movement?

Bulova Accutron, the Watch of the 1960s

The Rise and Fall of Leonidas and the Beau-Site Factory

Droz and Degoumois: Berna Watch Factory

From Atelier to Factory: Usine Centrale, Saint-Imier

Is Longines the World’s Oldest Watch Brand?

The Rise of Mass-Produced Watches at Les Longines, Saint-Imier

Auguste Fiedler, Master of Modernist Watch Advertising

About

About Grail Watch

Favorite Sites

  • The Watch Files Podcast
  • Watch Wiki
  • Europa Star
  • The Naked Watchmaker
  • Perezcope
  • ScrewDownCrown
  • Lugs and Lume
  • Horolonomics
  • Le Monde Edmond
  • Plus9Time
  • Reddit /r/Watches
  • Seiko & Citizen Watch Forum
  • The Watch Lounge
  • WatchBase
  • Watches by SJX
Posting....