Grail Watch

The search for the grail is the search for illumination

  • Grail Watch Reference
  • The Watch Files Podcast
  • History
  • Commentary
    • Grails
    • Reviews
  • Collection
    • Watch A Day
    • My Watch Collection
  • Reference Materials
    • Watch Brand and Model Pages
    • Reference Database
    • Primary Sources
  • About Grail Watch
  • Email
  • Instagram
  • LinkedIn
  • Twitter

Copyright © 2022 · Log in

In Praise of the Rolex Cellini Prince

February 25, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

At Baselworld in 2005, Rolex introduced one of the most radical products in its history: The Cellini Prince was a high-end rectangular watch with a transparent caseback showing off a highly-decorated rectangular movement. The Cellini Prince was unlike anything else in the catalog, but did not find its way into the hearts of Rolex buyers and the line was cancelled in 2015. It’s time to give this model a closer look!

Filed Under: Commentary, Reviews Tagged With: Paraflex, Rolex, Rolex 7040, Rolex Cellini, Rolex Cellini Prince, Rolex Prince

The History of the IWC Da Vinci via Europa Star

June 5, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Regular Grail Watch readers might have noticed that I have begun using the archives of Europa Star rather heavily in my research. The editors noticed as well, and have invited me to be a contributing writer to that fine journal. My first piece was published today, and delves into the history of an iconic model, IWC’s Da Vinci. The archive brought me fantastic information and illustrations, as we will discuss today.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Beta 21, CEH, Chronograph, Europa Star, IWC, IWC Da Vinci, IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, Mechaquartz, perpetual calendar, quartz

More Movements, One Case

June 4, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

I’ve recently written about the odd but surprisingly frequent practice of casing two movements into a single watch. From Nappey to Ardath to respected brands like Hermes and Cartier, many companies have used twin movements in a single watch. But what about squeezing in three, four, or more movements? The development of compact and inexpensive quartz movements made that possible in the 1980s, and this has lead to the creation of many novel oddballs.

Filed Under: Commentary, History Tagged With: Colani, Colani Apogee, Delaneau, Façonnable, Glycine, Glycine Airman, Glycine Airman 7, IceLink, Jean d'Eve, Raymond Weil, Raymond Weil Trianon

Beuchat Envers ACW, Juvenia Contresens, and Klokers: The History of the Anti-Clockwise Watch

April 13, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Almost all clocks turn “clockwise”, with the hands moving from the top of the dial to the right. But for the last few decades a few oddball watches have used hands moving in the other direction! This corner of horology is not well understood, so I decided to take a stab at documenting this revolution. It begins conceptually with the digital mechanical watches of the 1970s. Then Beuchat, a fashionable French brand of the 1980s, produces the first such watch. Swiss quartz behemoth Ronda pitches in, bringing forth an odd watch from the venerable house of Juvenia before today’s Klokers gets it right.

Filed Under: Commentary, History Tagged With: Alain Silberstein, anti-clockwise, AS 2072, Beuchat, Beuchat Envers, clockwise, digital, France Ebauches, Japanese clocks, jumping hours, Juvenia, Juvenia Contresens, Klokers, Ronda

Retrograde Retrospective: A History of the Le Phare Sectora and Quarta

April 8, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Although unconventional time displays are popular today, very few watches had so-called retrograde hands to display the time until the 1990s. Sector displays first appeared in pocket watches as early as 1650 and were wildly popular in the early 1900s thanks to the Sector pocket watch from Record. But it was not until the Le Phare Sectora, LIP Secteur, and Wittnauer Futurama of the 1970s that this complication appeared on the wrist. These watches are rarely seen or discussed today, but were truly groundbreaking even as the quartz revolution challenged watchmaking.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Jean d'Eve, Le Phare, LIP, LIP Secteur, Record, Record Sector, retrograde, Sector, Wittnauer, Wittnauer Futurama

Seiko Galante History Part 1: Selling Sex in Japan

August 10, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Among Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko Group’s vast array of watch lines, perhaps none is as odd as Galante. A high-end brand with a modern, avant garde look that expresses a different face of Japan, Galante features novel construction and high-end finishing. The initial Galante models, from 2005 through 2009, all used Seiko’s Spring Drive movement and were sold with a combination of sex and celebrity.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: 5R65, 5R66, 5R86, Galante, Seiko, Spring Drive

The History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

April 12, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

The Royal Oak Chronograph was a latecomer to this celebrated line and has remained remarkably consistent throughout its two-decade life. All share the same movement and a single lineage passes from the original Ref. 25860 to the subtly-redesigned Ref. 26300, the up-sized Ref. 26320, and the new Ref. 26331. It was only this year that a second model, the 38 mm Ref. 26315, was added. Yet on closer examination, a world of differences emerges, from the City of Sails to the Leo Messi, to the new 41 mm dial. Through it all, the Royal Oak Chronograph remains one of the classiest and most comfortable watches available.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Audemars Piguet, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, Chronograph, FP 1185

Parmigiani Bugatti: A Retrospective Look

April 1, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Over 18 years, Parmigiani Fleurier produced just five Bugatti watch models, and I have come to respect their engineering, design, and finishing. With the two companies going their separate ways, it is hard to imagine any other watch company doing justice to the Bugatti name.

Filed Under: Commentary, History Tagged With: Michel Parmigiani, Parmigiani, Parmigiani Fleurier

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gran’Sport: The First “Beefcake” Reverso

January 23, 2019 By Stephen 1 Comment

Given the clever retrograde chronograph movement, the Gran’Sport Chronograph is the pick of the Gran’Sport lineup today. It’s really too bad that gorgeous Reverso Chronographe Rétrograde is out of the price range for most people.

Filed Under: Grails, History Tagged With: 829, 859, Chronograph, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Retrograde, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gran'Sport, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gran'Sport Chronograph, retrograde

The Curious Case of the Seiko SARA and 4L25

December 21, 2018 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Despite an amazing history of producing excellent watches and watch movements, Seiko never seems to get the respect it deserves. But perhaps the most curious attempt by Seiko to challenge the Swiss came in the form of the SARA watch and the 4L25 movement inside.

Filed Under: Grails, History Tagged With: 4L25, Brightz, SARA005, Seiko

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • Next Page »

Latest Posts

Is The Naked Frederique Constant Perpetual a Hit or Miss?

The Neo-Classical Watches of Naoya Hida

What is a Lépine Watch Movement?

Bulova Accutron, the Watch of the 1960s

The Rise and Fall of Leonidas and the Beau-Site Factory

Droz and Degoumois: Berna Watch Factory

From Atelier to Factory: Usine Centrale, Saint-Imier

Is Longines the World’s Oldest Watch Brand?

The Rise of Mass-Produced Watches at Les Longines, Saint-Imier

Auguste Fiedler, Master of Modernist Watch Advertising

About

About Grail Watch

Favorite Sites

  • The Watch Files Podcast
  • Watch Wiki
  • Europa Star
  • The Naked Watchmaker
  • Perezcope
  • ScrewDownCrown
  • Lugs and Lume
  • Horolonomics
  • Le Monde Edmond
  • Plus9Time
  • Reddit /r/Watches
  • Seiko & Citizen Watch Forum
  • The Watch Lounge
  • WatchBase
  • Watches by SJX
Posting....