My enthusiasm for various watch models tends to wax and wane as I see something interesting, and lately my attention has turned to the IWC Ingenieur range. From the original Milgauss competitor to Gerald Genta’s remarkable Ingenieur SL to the chunky Mercedes-AMG racing models, the Ingenieur lineup has always been worth a look. Yet today’s lineup is beyond bland and not deserving of the name. Good thing, too, since IWC seems to be eliminating that, too!
Today’s “Watch A Day” is my Paul Picot Firshire chronograph, which I described extensively back in 2014. It’s combines a classic hand winding chronograph movement with modern build quality in a dressy yet sporty tonneau case. Four years on, I find myself wearing it about once a month, which is above average in my collection.
The Storm Microcamera is something special only because it’s so darn odd. It’s not very functional or useful, but it looks cool and is excellently designed and made. It’s everything that “mushroom brands” like the Xeric aren’t. And I like it.
Yesterday’s affordable Orient diver gives way today to an even better Swiss alternative: The Squale 1545 has heritage, provenance, classic looks, and serious Swiss construction. It’s the real deal, yet costs less than 1/10 as much as a Rolex Submariner.
A few years ago, I was visiting lovely Como, Italy when I came across a very special watch. Alongside the usual selection of little old Rolex and Omega watches was a dark beauty: A Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX1 Limited Edition in titanium with a deep ruthenium dial. I brought that watch home and it’s become a favorite of mine. Now there’s a similar watch up for auction, and I suggest that you take a look!
I love the mechanics of the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar watch, but it suffers from a serious issue for show-offs: The mechanism only works in one direction. So now I give you the ultimate perpetual calendar: H. Moser & Cie.’s Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. It’s the cleanest, simplest, friendliest perpetual calendar watch on the market, and unbelievably gorgeous besides!
Continuing my quest for the perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava, I turn to the other main branch of the family. In 1973, Patek Philippe added “Clous de Paris” guilloche to the bezel of a straight-lug Calatrava and a new legend was born. Today, many people think of this Ref. 3520 rather than the clean, flowing original when they hear the name! Is this the perfect Calatrava?
On the subject of unusual Patek Philippe Calatrava references, may I present a very unusual sculpted model: Ref. 5090J from about 2000, also called the “Russian Watch” due to its limited production for that market. I found two examples of this unusual reference for sale, so I thought I would take a moment to talk about it.
Even watch enthusiasts might not have heard of the Jacques Etoile, let alone master watchmakers Horst and Klaus Jakob. But this quiet German brand has made many fine watches in the last 20 years. This limited-edition watch was released in 2005 to celebrate Horst Jakob’s 50 years as a watchmaker. It was one of 70 handmade by Horst, all of which use a classic A. Schild AS 1123 movement.
Many male watch enthusiasts would love to give that special lady in their life a fine watch, even if they don’t share our enthusiasm. This Patek Philippe “Twenty~4” pushes all the right buttons on both side of the equation: A real Patek, with diamonds no less, in wearable form and affordable thanks to a quartz movement and steel case.