Grail Watch

The search for the grail is the search for illumination

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How I Uncovered Mulfi, Dulfi, and Henri Müller

June 25, 2021 By Stephen 3 Comments

I hope that this somewhat-pointless research project into Dulfi, Mulfi, and Henri Müller helps illustrate my approach to learning about the history of the watch industry and my reliance on primary sources for information. We can trace the foundation of Henri Müller & Fils with confidence and can definitely know the dates of establishment of Mulfi and Dulfi. We even have some images of ads and watches that came along the way.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Collectors Table, Delba, Dulfi, Europa Star, Fred S. Mandelbaum, Georges Caspari, Gigandet, Henri Müller, Indicateur Davoine, La Chaux-de-Fonds, La Fédération Horlogère, Montbrillant Watch Manufactory, Mulfi

How the Chronograph Became the “It” Watch Complication

June 23, 2021 By Stephen 2 Comments

Chronographs are so popular that cheap fashion watches today often feature bogus subdials with non-functional hands and pushers. But once upon a time, a chronograph was a simple tool seen more as an advanced stopwatch than a true complication. What was once a utilitarian tool for soldiers became an upscale choice for doctors, then an iconoclast choice for young people, and now a sign of fine watchmaking.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Breitling Chronomat, Chronograph, Daniel Roth, Europa Star, Excelsior Park, IWC Da Vinci, Leonidas, Martel, Nathan Weil, Patek Philippe

The Entire Industry Invented the Automatic Chronograph

May 13, 2021 By Stephen 1 Comment

Automatic watches were hot in the 1950s, and chronographs were cool in the 1960s. But bringing these technologies together was not at all straightforward! Three different automatic chronograph movements were launched in 1969, and the story of their creation reflects the state of the industry at that time as well as the inevitability of technological progress.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Buren, Chronomatic, Dubois Dépraz, Heinrich Stamm, Heuer, High-Beat, Martel, micro-rotor, Seiko, Speed Timer, Zenith, Zenith El Primero

Levrette Chronograph: Classic Elegance

April 24, 2018 By Stephen 3 Comments

Today’s “Watch A Day” is a real classic: A Swiss chronograph in a gold case with the historic Venus 175 movement ticking inside. It’s a joy to wear and enjoy such a wonderful timepiece!

Filed Under: Collection, Watch A Day Tagged With: Chronograph, column wheel, Levrette, Tissot, Venus, Venus 175

In Search of the Perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava, Starting with Ref. 96

January 31, 2016 By Stephen 1 Comment

Whenever this subject of iconic watches comes up, you can be sure the Patek Philippe Calatrava is all over the list. Yet it’s hard to pin down which Calatrava is the one to get. With over 100 references produced, I am still trying to identify The Perfect Patek Philippe Calatrava. Ref. 96 has a lot going for it other than “first”, with the perfect case, wonderful dials, and small seconds. Check out this white gold Ref. 96 from Robert Maron – it’s the best Ref. 96 I could find today!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Calatrava, Calatrava 96, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe 12-400, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Robert Maron, The Perfect Calatrava

What If Your Company Gave You a Limited-Edition Gold Patek Philippe?

March 2, 2015 By Stephen 14 Comments

A “gold watch” is an archetypal reward for years of meritorious service to a company. But how cool would it be if your company contracted with Patek Philippe to build a special set of 20 Calatrava watches? That’s exactly what General Motors Overseas Operations did in 1954, and these watches are a unique collectible today!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: 1578, 1578GM, Auctionata, Christies, General Motors, Hodinkee, iCollector, Original Miami Beach Antique Show, Patek Philippe, Patek Philippe 12-400, Patek Philippe 1578, Sotheby's

Reveil! Comparing Alarm Watches

January 21, 2015 By Stephen 2 Comments

It is difficult for a watch enthusiast on a budget to enter the world of complicated watches. Adding anything more than time and date quickly ratchets up the price beyond what most people can afford. This is especially true of chiming watches – good luck finding a mechanical Repeater or Sonnerie priced less than a car! But Reveil (or alarm) watches are the exception: These can often be found on a budget. Today we will look at a few that are up for auction and decide which (if any) is a buy.

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: alarm, alarm clock, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, Montblanc, Oris, Reveil, Sonnerie, Vulcain, Vulcain Cricket

Breguet Type 20 French Military Flyback Chronograph

November 21, 2014 By Stephen Leave a Comment

I don’t usually talk about military watches, but this Breguet Type 20 caught my attention. It has fantastic patina, from the faded lume to the cracked crystal, and it represents a unique part of history. I’m not sure it’s worth the € 3,000 starting bid, but it might well be to an enthusiast.

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: Breguet, Breguet Type 20, Chronograph, Flyback, Type 20, Valjoux 22, Valjoux 222

1950 Zenith “Scuderia Ferrari” Chronograph

May 27, 2014 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Sometimes when browsing watches one stumbles upon something that seems seriously out of place. Such was the case when I spotted a Scuderia Ferrari-branded Zenith Chronograph in the listings for tomorrow’s Chrono24/Auctionata auction: Sure, there are Ferrari-branded watches today, but this one dates to “around 1950” and has a yellow logo!

Filed Under: Grails Tagged With: 1950 Zenith Chronograph, Excelsior Park, Ferrari, Scuderia Ferrari

Fame and Fortune, or Why Some Vintage Watches Are Worth More Than Others

March 1, 2014 By Stephen 3 Comments

Today, a vintage Rolex Explorer or Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic can command $10,000 or more, yet I just purchased a beautiful Nivada Antarctic at auction for just € 450.

Filed Under: Collection, Commentary Tagged With: Buren, Croton, Enicar, Grenchen, International Geophysical Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic, Nivada Antarctic, Nivada Grenchen, Rolex Explorer, Rolex Milgauss, Vulcain

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