Grail Watch

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How My Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Went Bad, and What It Took To Get It Back

November 23, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

“The email address you entered could not be found” is not the response anyone should receive when contacting the representative of a high-end watch company about an expensive watch that failed less than a year after purchase. But it was typical of the level of service I received from Parmigiani Fleurier USA. This is the story of my Tonda 1950 and the long wait to restore it to working order.

Filed Under: Commentary, Reviews Tagged With: Chronoswiss, Chronoswiss Regulateur, customer service, Parmigiani, Parmigiani Fleurier, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950, service, shipping, Tonda 1950

Two Movements, One Case: Alexander Shorokhoff Levels and Los Craneos

September 14, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Regular readers of Grail Watch know that I have a particular fascination with watches that contain multiple separate movements in a single case. Ever since the Nappey Jumelles Times and Ardath Long Distance of the 1960s, watch makers have used compact “ladies” movements in oversized travel watches for men. Now a modern maker, Alexander Shorokhoff, has done the same, first with the Los Craneos an now with the new Levels model.

Filed Under: Grails, Reviews Tagged With: Alexander Shorokhoff, Alexander Shorokhoff Levels, Alexander Shorokhoff Los Craneos, dual timezone, ETA 2671

Beuchat Envers ACW, Juvenia Contresens, and Klokers: The History of the Anti-Clockwise Watch

April 13, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Almost all clocks turn “clockwise”, with the hands moving from the top of the dial to the right. But for the last few decades a few oddball watches have used hands moving in the other direction! This corner of horology is not well understood, so I decided to take a stab at documenting this revolution. It begins conceptually with the digital mechanical watches of the 1970s. Then Beuchat, a fashionable French brand of the 1980s, produces the first such watch. Swiss quartz behemoth Ronda pitches in, bringing forth an odd watch from the venerable house of Juvenia before today’s Klokers gets it right.

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: Alain Silberstein, anti-clockwise, AS 2072, Beuchat, Beuchat Envers, clockwise, digital, France Ebauches, Japanese clocks, jumping hours, Juvenia, Juvenia Contresens, Klokers, Ronda

Chronotechna Ultimate Black Hands-On Review: Black? Yes. Ultimate? Not Really.

April 5, 2020 By Stephen 1 Comment

After over a year delay, I finally received my Chronotechna Ultimate Black watch, with its NanoBlack coated dial, cut-out luminous numerals, and black case and strap. It’s really black, but was it really worth the wait? Yes and no. It’s a good watch with a cool dial, iffy lume, and a horrible strap. But at least I got mine!

Filed Under: Collection, Reviews Tagged With: Chronotechna, Kickstarter, NanoBlack, Sellita SW200-1

Where’s My Watch? The Ongoing Chronotechna Saga

February 16, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Chronotechna promised “the blackest watch ever made” but hasn’t delivered on their promises. Or, in my case, hasn’t delivered at all!

Filed Under: Reviews Tagged With: Chronotechna, Kickstarter, NanoBlack, Vantablack

Audemars Piguet Dominates the “Watch Oscars”, with Strong Showings Across the Board

November 8, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève features a grail for every price tag, from the affordable Ming 17.06, Tudor Black Bay P01, Seiko Prospex LX and Kudoke 2 to the insane Urwerk AMC with its atomic clock “docking station”. It also heaps praise on the long-running Audemars Piguet Royal Oak line and Chanel’s fantastic J12. Truly something for everyone!

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Audemars Piguet, Audemars Piguet Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Chanel, Chanel J12, Genus, GPHG, Kudoke, Ming, Seiko, Seiko Prospex, Urwerk, Voutilainen

Seiko Galante History Part 2: Open Your Heart to Tokyo

August 13, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Seiko launched a mechanical Galante line in 2010 as a cheaper alternative to the Spring Drive watches the brand was known for. This SBLL line featured an “open heart” highlighting the ticking balance and the design focused on the city of Tokyo.

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: 8L38, Galante, SBLL, Seiko

The History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

April 12, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

The Royal Oak Chronograph was a latecomer to this celebrated line and has remained remarkably consistent throughout its two-decade life. All share the same movement and a single lineage passes from the original Ref. 25860 to the subtly-redesigned Ref. 26300, the up-sized Ref. 26320, and the new Ref. 26331. It was only this year that a second model, the 38 mm Ref. 26315, was added. Yet on closer examination, a world of differences emerges, from the City of Sails to the Leo Messi, to the new 41 mm dial. Through it all, the Royal Oak Chronograph remains one of the classiest and most comfortable watches available.

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: Audemars Piguet, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, Chronograph, FP 1185

Parmigiani Bugatti: A Retrospective Look

April 1, 2019 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Over 18 years, Parmigiani Fleurier produced just five Bugatti watch models, and I have come to respect their engineering, design, and finishing. With the two companies going their separate ways, it is hard to imagine any other watch company doing justice to the Bugatti name.

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: Michel Parmigiani, Parmigiani, Parmigiani Fleurier

Surveying the 2018 Seiko x Giugiaro “Speed Master” LCD Reissue Series (SBJG)

January 18, 2019 By Stephen 5 Comments

Seiko has been collaborating with Giugiaro Design since the 1980s. The most famous fruit of this collaboration was the “Aliens” watch line, which have been reissued in recent years. In late 2018, Seiko introduced another reissue: The SBJG multi-function digital models we will discuss today.

Filed Under: Reviews Tagged With: A825, A828, Giugiaro, LCD, quartz, SBJG, Seiko, Seiko Giugiaro, Speed Master, SSBA

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Latest Posts

Inventing the Solar-Powered Watch: Patek Philippe, Synchronar, and Uranus

Hebdomas: The True Story of the 8-Day Pocket Watch

How I Find Great Deals in Watch Auction Catalogs

How My Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Went Bad, and What It Took To Get It Back

Why Have No Smartwatches Won at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève?

My Take on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 Headlines

Two Movements, One Case: Alexander Shorokhoff Levels and Los Craneos

What Was the World’s First Quartz Watch?

CEH and the Beta 21: The History of the First Swiss Quartz Watch

The History of the IWC Da Vinci via Europa Star

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