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Stephen Foskett, Publisher

Stephen Foskett is a wristwatch enthusiast, historian, and writer. He founded and publishes Grail Watch and the sister site, Grail Watch Reference. He is also a contributing editor for Watch Wiki and a contributing writer for Europa Star.

How Edmond Jaeger and Jacques-David LeCoultre Joined Forces

January 5, 2022 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Much has been written of the history of Jaeger-LeCoultre, but little has been said of the complex history that gave us this unusual name. How did an Alsatian immigrant to Paris come to be so closely connected to one of the most famous watchmaking families of the Vallée de Joux? This is the story of the partnership between Edmond Jaeger and Jacques-David LeCoultre, and those that helped them to become Jaeger-LeCoultre, including a group of French aviation pioneers and a Swiss daredevil with a famous family name.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Antoine LeCoultre, Cartier, Cartier Santos Dumont, Edmond Audemars, Edmond Jaeger, Gustave Delage, Jacques-David LeCoultre, Jaeger-LeCoultre

Ringing In 2022 With a Look at Horological History

December 30, 2021 By Stephen 2 Comments

It’s traditional to celebrate important anniversaries and to use the New Years season to look back. That’s what we’re doing today, with a look at some important events in horology from 1822, 1872, 1922, 1947, 1972, and 1997! From Edmond Jaeger and Bovet to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and a whole lotta quartz, a little bit of a grab bag here, and we hope you enjoy it!

Filed Under: Commentary, History Tagged With: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Bovet, Bulova Accuquartz, Ditronic, Edmond Jaeger, Langematik, Montblanc, Omega Time Computer, Railroad watch, Seiko, Vulcain Cricket, Webster Ball

House of Chaumet: How 80s Greed Brought Down a Legendary Paris Firm

November 27, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

On June 13, 1987, noted Parisian jewelers Pierre and Jacques Chaumet were taken into custody for bankruptcy, breach of trust, and fraud. The distinguished gentlemen would be convicted of all these crimes, losing control of the House of Chaumet, one of the most celebrated names in jewelry, as well as Breguet, which enjoyed a similar reputation in watchmaking. The story of the rise and fall of Chaumet is even more fascinating for what is not known about the case, however, and what it tells us about the modern aristocracy.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breguet, Chaumet, Daniel Roth, diamonds, Investcorp, Lemania, LVMH, Michel Parmigiani, Nitot, Place Vendôme, SMH, Swatch Group

SLAP Testing Watch Industry Marketing

October 31, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

If you’ve listened to The Watch Files podcast or read much here at Grail Watch, you’ve undoubtedly heard me refer to industry folklore. Clever stories are often repeated in forums, articles, and conversations, but they are often not entirely true. Then there’s the industry marketing machine, pushing surprising narratives and a-list connections with little grounding in reality. Let’s take a moment to consider the ways that folklorists spot false information and apply these watch industry marketing.

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: Anordain, Concepto, Furlan Marri, H. Moser & Cie., Kickstarter, Kurono Tokyo, marketing, Ming, Panerai, Philippe Dufour, Podcast, Positive Coating, Rolex, Swiss Made

My Picks For the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021

October 15, 2021 By Stephen 3 Comments

This year, I’m going to take a look at the nominations for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards and pick my favorites. Although my selections don’t usually make the cut, I’m going to enjoy making selections rather than try to pick the winners. I’ll also offer some historical perspective on the best entries.

Filed Under: Commentary Tagged With: Anordain, Awards, GPHG, Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, Hermès, IWC, Louis Erard, Oris, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Vianney Halter

Excelsior Park: Usine du Parc, Saint-Imier

October 7, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Industrialization of watchmaking came to Switzerland in the late 19th century and is embodied by the huge Longines factory on the Suze river in Saint-Imier. But steam power came first, enabling the construction of factories across Europe and the United States, including Usine du Parc, home and namesake of Excelsior Park. This is the story of the rise and fall of steam power in Saint-Imier and the exceptional stopwatches made there. It is also the story of the end of steam and of the Excelsior Park factory, and the reasons for its failure.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Albert Jeanneret, Chronograph, Excelsior Park, Fritz Moeri, Gallet, Henri Jeanneret-Brehm, Jules-Frédéric Jeanneret, Moeris, Saint-Imier, Stopwatch

IWC, Porsche Design, and Titanium Watches

October 5, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

On April 25, 1981, attendees at the European Watch, Clock, and Jewellery Fair in Basel got their hands on something completely new. IWC introduced the Porsche Design Titan chronograph, the first titanium watch available for sale. The revolutionary material caught the watchmaking world off guard, and the Titan helped IWC and their partner Jaeger-LeCoultre survive the quartz crisis. This is the story of the watches created by legendary designer Ferdinand Alexander Porsche and the radical utilitarian watch designs he created with IWC. It’s also a story of how materials and design can spark customer enthusiasm and sales.

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: Citychamp, Eterna, Hublot, IWC, Marc Newson, Omega Speedmaster, Orfina, Porsche Design, Titanium, Valjoux 7750

The Evolution of Watchmaking Architecture: Rue des Roses 2 and Rue du Stand 35 in Saint-Imier

September 27, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Around 1900, a small watch factory was built at Rue des Roses 2. This little cottage with a factory wing was soon augmented by an ornate Beaux-Arts factory befitting a captain of watchmaking like Ernest Degoumois. This was then expanded for dial maker Fluckiger and both buildings were expanded or replaced in the 1950s. Then a modern office building was added in place of the original mansion on Rue du Stand, and this became home to Cartier Group in the 1980s. Thus, this single factory complex in Saint-Imier exemplifies the various architectural trends seen in 20th century watchmaking.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Berna, Bourquin, Cartier Group, CEFF, Degoumois, Fluckiger, Leonidas, Nivarox, Reinhard Straumann, Richemont, Saint-Imier, Zeitwinkel

The Great Watchmaking Factories of Saint-Imier

August 28, 2021 By Stephen 1 Comment

This is the story of a simple postcard that compelled me along a deep and complicated path of research and discovery! Titled Les Grandes Fabriques d’Horlogerie de St Imier, the historic 1900 postcard shows “the five great watchmaking factories” of this small town. Over the past year, I’ve been learning more about these companies, in which the Jeanneret family was intimately involved, including Excelsior Park, Francillon’s Longines, Fritz Moeri’s Moeris, Droz & Cie and Ernest Degoumois’s Montres Berna, Ferdinand Bourquin’s Leonidas, and more. This is the first in a series of posts on the great factories found in these engravings!

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Albert Jeanneret, Berna, CEFF, Droz & Cie, Excelsior Park, Fluckiger, Fritz Moeri, Jacques David, Jules-Frédéric Jeanneret, Leonidas, Longines, Moeris, Nivarox, Patrick Linder, Robert Gygax, Saint-Imier, Schweingruber, Walter Mittelholzer

Investigating the Origins of the Hebdomas 8-Day Watch

August 2, 2021 By Stephen 3 Comments

Last year I published an article on the long and complicated story of Hebdomas, the 8-day watch with the exposed balance wheel. As I discussed then, the watch dates all the way back to 1889 and remains in production to this day, a remarkably long life for a fussy old fashioned design! But I did not then have access to some of the sources of information that inform my research today, and a few readers pointed out some areas I missed. Today I am diving deep into the origins of the Hebdomas, the inventor Irénée Aubry, the watchmaker Arthur Graizely, and the industrialist Otto Schild.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Arthur Graizely, Hebdomas, Irénée Aubry, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Marvin, Octava, Octo, Otto Schild

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