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Bulova Accutron, the Watch of the 1960s

April 14, 2022 By Stephen 3 Comments

The Bulova Accutron was the most important watch of the 1960s, bringing a new level of accuracy and technology and shifting the balance of power in horology from Switzerland back to the United States. It was also a dead end, delaying the development of other electronic watches and distracting the American and Swiss industries from the rise of quartz. How did something with such promise fail to have a lasting hold on the market?

Filed Under: Commentary, History Tagged With: Beta 21, Bulova, Bulova Accuquartz, Bulova Accutron, Ebauches SA, Electric, Elgin, Hamilton, Hamilton Electric Ventura, Harry Henschel, Landeron, LIP, Max Hetzel, Mosaba

The Rise and Fall of Leonidas and the Beau-Site Factory

April 5, 2022 By Stephen 2 Comments

Leonidas is a familiar name to chronograph aficionados, but the history of the company is long and interesting, dating back to 1841 and connecting two great names in Swiss watchmaking, Bourquin and Jeanneret, and the company was linked to both Heuer and Berna.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Beau-Site, Berna, Charles Jeanneret, Chronograph, Constant Jeanneret-Droz, Ferdinand Bourquin, Julien Bourquin, Junior, Leonidas, Saint-Imier, Stopwatch

How I Uncovered Mulfi, Dulfi, and Henri Müller

June 25, 2021 By Stephen 3 Comments

I hope that this somewhat-pointless research project into Dulfi, Mulfi, and Henri Müller helps illustrate my approach to learning about the history of the watch industry and my reliance on primary sources for information. We can trace the foundation of Henri Müller & Fils with confidence and can definitely know the dates of establishment of Mulfi and Dulfi. We even have some images of ads and watches that came along the way.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Collectors Table, Delba, Dulfi, Europa Star, Fred S. Mandelbaum, Georges Caspari, Gigandet, Henri Müller, Indicateur Davoine, La Chaux-de-Fonds, La Fédération Horlogère, Montbrillant Watch Manufactory, Mulfi

How the Chronograph Became the “It” Watch Complication

June 23, 2021 By Stephen 2 Comments

Chronographs are so popular that cheap fashion watches today often feature bogus subdials with non-functional hands and pushers. But once upon a time, a chronograph was a simple tool seen more as an advanced stopwatch than a true complication. What was once a utilitarian tool for soldiers became an upscale choice for doctors, then an iconoclast choice for young people, and now a sign of fine watchmaking.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Breitling Chronomat, Chronograph, Daniel Roth, Europa Star, Excelsior Park, IWC Da Vinci, Leonidas, Martel, Nathan Weil, Patek Philippe

The Entire Industry Invented the Automatic Chronograph

May 13, 2021 By Stephen 1 Comment

Automatic watches were hot in the 1950s, and chronographs were cool in the 1960s. But bringing these technologies together was not at all straightforward! Three different automatic chronograph movements were launched in 1969, and the story of their creation reflects the state of the industry at that time as well as the inevitability of technological progress.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Buren, Chronomatic, Dubois Dépraz, Heinrich Stamm, Heuer, High-Beat, Martel, micro-rotor, Seiko, Speed Timer, Zenith, Zenith El Primero

The Forgotten History of Jaquet-Droz, Switzerland’s Shared Watch Brand

April 22, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

The name “Jaquet Droz” has had many different meanings since the birth of Pierre Jaquet-Droz 300 years ago. For two decades after its formation in 1961, the Coopérative de Fabricants Suisses d’Horlogerie and SAH were leading producers of Swiss watches, commanding a double-digit share of exports and revenue. Was this a success or a failure? And why does the modern haute horology company consistently skip any mention of this history?

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: Bienne, Breguet, Ebauches SA, etablisseur, Investcorp, Jaquet-Droz, Neuchâtel, Pierre Jaquet-Droz, SAH, Swatch Group, Swissonic

Blancpain, F. Piguet, Biver, and the Path Forward

March 16, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Blancpain is billed as “the world’s oldest watchmaker”, but the history of the company is far more complex. Founded before 1735 in Villeret, the modern Blancpain traces its heritage to 1981, when Jean-Claude Biver purchased the name to be a mechanical rebuke of quartz watches. Blancpain and movement specialist Frédéric Piguet would be acquired by what is now the Swatch Group in 1992, with Biver leading the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking.

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: Blancpain, Edmond Capt, Europa Star, Frédéric Piguet, Harwood, Jean-Claude Biver, Le Brassus, Lemania, Moeris, Nicolas Hayek, Omega, Rayville, SMH, SSIH, Swatch Group, Villeret

The Fall and Rise of Zenith, 1969-1988

March 3, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Zenith was “the first manufacture”, one of the greatest watch companies in Switzerland, and the economic force behind Le Locle. Then it was purchased by an American electronics company and ordered to destroy its mechanical watchmaking assets. This is the story of the mighty Zenith, brought low, and returning thanks to a machine tools baron, a humble watchmaker, and two other famous brands.

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: Charles Vermot, Chronomatic, Dixi, Ebel, El Primero, Georges Favre-Jacot, H. Moser & Cie., Le Locle, LVMH, Martel, Movado, Paul Buhré, Paul Castella, quartz, Rolex, Rolex Daytona, Tissot, Zenith, Zenith Defy, Zenith El Primero

Hebdomas: The True Story of the 8-Day Pocket Watch

November 29, 2020 By Stephen 9 Comments

Spend some time looking at old watches and you’re bound to stumble across an unusual watch with an off-center dial, fancy exposed balance, and 8-day power reserve. The dial will likely say “Hebdomas” and “8 Jours” and not much more. Is this some exotic high-end watch or a mass-market pretender? That’s the story I’m telling today!

Filed Under: History Tagged With: 8-day, Aerowatch, Arthur Graizely, Baladin, Bienne, Hebdomas, Kolber, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Otto Schild, Schild & Co, Vincent Calabrese, Xantia

What Was the World’s First Quartz Watch?

August 2, 2020 By Stephen 2 Comments

On Christmas Day, 1969, the Seiko Astron was launched; this was world’s first quartz wristwatch. Or at least that’s how the story goes. But the truth is much, much more complicated, as I have been researching and writing about for months. Only a few examples of that Cal. 35 SQ Astron were produced, and it was so expensive that not many were ever actually sold. And a raft of other watches (the CEH Beta 1, Longines Ultra-Quartz, various Beta 21 models, and even the Bulova Accuquartz) could make a credible claim. So what was the first?

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Armin Frei, Beta 1, Beta 21, Bulova, Bulova Accuquartz, CEH, Longines, Longines Ultra-Quartz, Rolex, Seiko, Seiko Astron

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