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Bulova Accutron, the Watch of the 1960s

April 14, 2022 By Stephen 3 Comments

The Bulova Accutron was the most important watch of the 1960s, bringing a new level of accuracy and technology and shifting the balance of power in horology from Switzerland back to the United States. It was also a dead end, delaying the development of other electronic watches and distracting the American and Swiss industries from the rise of quartz. How did something with such promise fail to have a lasting hold on the market?

Filed Under: Commentary, History Tagged With: Beta 21, Bulova, Bulova Accuquartz, Bulova Accutron, Ebauches SA, Electric, Elgin, Hamilton, Hamilton Electric Ventura, Harry Henschel, Landeron, LIP, Max Hetzel, Mosaba

House of Chaumet: How 80s Greed Brought Down a Legendary Paris Firm

November 27, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

On June 13, 1987, noted Parisian jewelers Pierre and Jacques Chaumet were taken into custody for bankruptcy, breach of trust, and fraud. The distinguished gentlemen would be convicted of all these crimes, losing control of the House of Chaumet, one of the most celebrated names in jewelry, as well as Breguet, which enjoyed a similar reputation in watchmaking. The story of the rise and fall of Chaumet is even more fascinating for what is not known about the case, however, and what it tells us about the modern aristocracy.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breguet, Chaumet, Daniel Roth, diamonds, Investcorp, Lemania, LVMH, Michel Parmigiani, Nitot, Place Vendôme, SMH, Swatch Group

The Evolution of Watchmaking Architecture: Rue des Roses 2 and Rue du Stand 35 in Saint-Imier

September 27, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Around 1900, a small watch factory was built at Rue des Roses 2. This little cottage with a factory wing was soon augmented by an ornate Beaux-Arts factory befitting a captain of watchmaking like Ernest Degoumois. This was then expanded for dial maker Fluckiger and both buildings were expanded or replaced in the 1950s. Then a modern office building was added in place of the original mansion on Rue du Stand, and this became home to Cartier Group in the 1980s. Thus, this single factory complex in Saint-Imier exemplifies the various architectural trends seen in 20th century watchmaking.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Berna, Bourquin, Cartier Group, CEFF, Degoumois, Fluckiger, Leonidas, Nivarox, Reinhard Straumann, Richemont, Saint-Imier, Zeitwinkel

How the Chronograph Became the “It” Watch Complication

June 23, 2021 By Stephen 2 Comments

Chronographs are so popular that cheap fashion watches today often feature bogus subdials with non-functional hands and pushers. But once upon a time, a chronograph was a simple tool seen more as an advanced stopwatch than a true complication. What was once a utilitarian tool for soldiers became an upscale choice for doctors, then an iconoclast choice for young people, and now a sign of fine watchmaking.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Breitling Chronomat, Chronograph, Daniel Roth, Europa Star, Excelsior Park, IWC Da Vinci, Leonidas, Martel, Nathan Weil, Patek Philippe

The Entire Industry Invented the Automatic Chronograph

May 13, 2021 By Stephen 1 Comment

Automatic watches were hot in the 1950s, and chronographs were cool in the 1960s. But bringing these technologies together was not at all straightforward! Three different automatic chronograph movements were launched in 1969, and the story of their creation reflects the state of the industry at that time as well as the inevitability of technological progress.

Filed Under: History Tagged With: Breitling, Buren, Chronomatic, Dubois Dépraz, Heinrich Stamm, Heuer, High-Beat, Martel, micro-rotor, Seiko, Speed Timer, Zenith, Zenith El Primero

The Forgotten History of Jaquet-Droz, Switzerland’s Shared Watch Brand

April 22, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

The name “Jaquet Droz” has had many different meanings since the birth of Pierre Jaquet-Droz 300 years ago. For two decades after its formation in 1961, the Coopérative de Fabricants Suisses d’Horlogerie and SAH were leading producers of Swiss watches, commanding a double-digit share of exports and revenue. Was this a success or a failure? And why does the modern haute horology company consistently skip any mention of this history?

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: Bienne, Breguet, Ebauches SA, etablisseur, Investcorp, Jaquet-Droz, Neuchâtel, Pierre Jaquet-Droz, SAH, Swatch Group, Swissonic

The Fall and Rise of Zenith, 1969-1988

March 3, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Zenith was “the first manufacture”, one of the greatest watch companies in Switzerland, and the economic force behind Le Locle. Then it was purchased by an American electronics company and ordered to destroy its mechanical watchmaking assets. This is the story of the mighty Zenith, brought low, and returning thanks to a machine tools baron, a humble watchmaker, and two other famous brands.

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: Charles Vermot, Chronomatic, Dixi, Ebel, El Primero, Georges Favre-Jacot, H. Moser & Cie., Le Locle, LVMH, Martel, Movado, Paul Buhré, Paul Castella, quartz, Rolex, Rolex Daytona, Tissot, Zenith, Zenith Defy, Zenith El Primero

The Thin Watch War | The Watch Files: January 12, 1979

February 23, 2021 By Stephen 4 Comments

On January 12, 1979, the Swiss watch industry announced the thinnest watch ever made: The Delirium, developed by Ebauches SA for Concord, Eterna, IWC, and Longines, measured just 1.98 mm thick. It wasn’t a big seller, but was a PR exercise to show the world that the Swiss were innovating like the Japanese. And the novel design paved the way for another announcement four years later, the Swatch.

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: André Beyner, Anthony Kable, Anton Bally, ASUAG, Citizen, Citizen Exceed Gold, Concord, Delirium, Ebauches SA, Elmar Mock, Ernst Thomke, Eterna, Europa Star, Gerry Grinberg, Jean Lassale, Longines, New York Times, Paul Renggli, Renata, Seiko, Tiffany

The Day Gérald Genta Challenged the Watch Industry | The Watch Files: November 7, 1984

February 20, 2021 By Stephen Leave a Comment

On November 7, 1984, Gérald Genta finally went too far. His audacious new watch collection was a scandal at the prestigious Montres et Bijoux and he was forced to remove it from the fair. But history shows that Genta was right again, and his designs laid the foundation of today’s luxury watch industry.

Filed Under: History, The Watch Files Tagged With: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Europa Star, Gerald Genta, IWC Ingenieur, Mickey Mouse, Montres et Bijoux, Patek Philippe Nautilus, Podcast, The Watch Files

Inventing the Solar-Powered Watch: Patek Philippe, Synchronar, and Uranus

December 20, 2020 By Stephen Leave a Comment

Photovoltaic cells were invented in the 1940s, and Patek Philippe produced a novel clock that used them. Once integrated circuit technology improved enough to build a quartz watch, American inventor Roger Riehl created the first solar-powered watch. His Synchronar paved the way for the solar digital watches that brought the technology to the masses in the 1970s. Then there was Uranus, with their wild calculator watch!

Filed Under: History Tagged With: digital, LED, Patek Philippe, solar watch, Synchronar, Uranus

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